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IT was well below freezing on the Finnish coast, but there my children were, frolicking outdoors in a pool whose warmed waters were giving off enchanting tufts of steam. Soon it began to snow, and they flipped onto their backs and strained to catch the chubby flakes in their mouths like so much candy.I had been communing with the landscape around our Finnish spa a bit differently. Earlier indoors, a muscular woman named Sari had poured a bucket of hot mud scooped from a nearby lake over me and swaddled me in a plastic sheet for half an hour, making me resemble a piece of performance art.
Hard to say who enjoyed it more: me, luxuriating in all that ooze, which Sari promised would cause me “to go to the bathroom several times today and sleep very well tonight.

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